This whisky is a crescendo, initially the nose is a little closed, but after a few minutes breathing in the glass, a glorious bouquet of dry, coastal and zesty ash emerges. A complex weave of seaweed, lapsang souchong, lanolin and sour lemon join underripe peach. The palate continues this peated complexity with more citrus, ash soot and even harbour rope and leather. In the words of BBR's spirits master, "You may find yourself cancelling the spring ferry to Islay, and checking how to get the Isle of Mull instead."